Little Red Riding Gugel

bty

Who’s afraid of the big bad wolf?

The gugel was a type of headdress from the 14th century. Mine is made from red wool, lined with white linen and completely handsewn with waxed linen thread. Even though the wool isn’t that thick, it is surprisingly warm. Very nice for cold Visby nights at Medieval Week on Gotland that aren’t quite cold enough to merit a cloak.

dav

Handsewn hem.

Viking Apron Dress

bty

Blue apron dress over red linen dress.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I had some left over lovely blue wool fabric and an event to go to where I was dressing up as the asynja Idun, so I decided to make a Viking apron dress! Or two thirds of one, the sides aren’t supposed to be open if you want to be period correct. I also added lacing in the back for a better fit – tubular apron dresses are not the most flattering garment for small boobs. The dress is completely hand sewn with waxed linen thread and decorated with a ribbon I had lying around. It is only hemmed at the top, because I figured I might add some gussets in the sides some other time. Here, Im wearing it over my red linen dress – love the combination of red and blue!

mde

These stitches are even Steven!

dav

Eyelets handsewn with silk thread.

dav

Handsewn eyelets reinforced with linen on the inside and finger braided cord with aglet.

mde

Top hem sewn with herringbone stitch (?). They’re called ‘häxstygn’ – witch stich, in Swedish. Or ‘krejstygn’.

bty

Ribbon decoration.

bty

Lacing at the back.

bty

Rawr, I has sword!

Red Medieval Linen (?) Dress

bty

Red linen dress over white linen shift.

What do you do when you’re bored at your family’s summer house and don’t have access to your sewing machine? You go to the local fabric store and find some fabric for a handsewn dress! This one is more inspired my the Middle Ages rather than being any attempt at reproduction. Linen was usually not worn as outer garments, and I’m not even sure it actually is linen. It may be some cotton blend that just looks a bit like linen. But I did handsew it with wasxed linen thread and finger braid my own cord for the lacing. I was going to cast over all of the seams on the inside by hand too, but ran out of time before Medieval Week on Gotland, so mot of them are finished by machine. Even though that isn’t very period correct either, I like the look when you can see the shift under the dress!

mde

Seam sewn and cast over by hand.

dav

Seam sewn by hand but zigzagged by machine.

mde

Hem seen from the inside, sewn with silk thread.

mde

Eyelet hand sewn with silk, finger braided cord and aglet.

Handmade Linen Shift

Medieval underwear!

When I decided to make my medieval wool kirtle, I needed a shift to go with it. I ended up wearing it with all of my medieval garb. It is completely hand sewn, hemmed and felled with waxed linen thread and made from pure linen. The neckline is very wide and low to go with my wool kirtle and my red linen dress. I recently added a drawstring to be able to change the neckline depending on the dress.

dav

Felled seam seen from the outside.

dav

Felled seam seen from the inside.

dav

Hem seen from the outside.

dav

Hem seen from the inside.

Handsewn Medieval Wool Kirtle

bty

So much skirt!

My first attempt at more historically accurate medeival garb. I got very inspired when I was studying textile history, and since I go to Medieval Week on Gotland every year, I thought it was time to try my hand at soemthing more historically accurate. I drew inspiration from kirtles of the mid 14th century, much like the in reeanctment circles popular Moy Bog, but with lacing instead of buttons. I drafted it myself based on the structure found in for example the Bocksten Man’s garb: rectangular pieces and triangular gussets. It is made from green homespun and completely hand sewn with waxed linen thread. The cord for the lacing is finger braided with yellow wool yarn.

Underneath, I wear a linen shift (absolutely required because wool can itch close to the skin and because linen is MUCH more washable than wool).

dav

Finger braided cord, aglet and eyelets sewn with silk and reinforced with linen.

mde

Side seam from the outside.

mde

Hem and side seam from the inside.

bmd

Spiral lacing.

Team Rocket, blast off at the speed of light!

SAM_1013

Surrender now, or prepare to fight!

Pokémon theme party of 2012! I dressed up as Jessie from Team Rocket in the original anime. Sorry, I don’t play Pokémon, but it was one of the first animes I watched as a little girl along with Sailor Moon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Not much sewing invloved in this costume, but some other craftiness! The top is a shirt which I folded up and secured with safety pins. I did make the skirt, by cutting off an old tank top and hemming it. The gloves are a pair of short leather gloves plus the cut of legs of faux leather leggings. Instead of boots, I wear overknee socks. The earrings are buttons attached to earring hooks. The ‘R’ is made of ribbon glued onto cardboard.

 

SAM_1001

Prepare for trouble!

SAM_0994

Make it double!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bild 2010-12-31 kl. 18.19 #2The hairstyling was the most work really. I teased my own hair over a huge pair of rollers with velcro and braided in some wire to make it stand a bit. Plus a ton of hairspray.

 

 

Green? Super Green! A bodycon dress

bty

Piece of fabric turned over once and pleated at the sides for drape. Also some pleats around the neckline.

I finally found fabric in the shade of green I like – not khaki, not caterpillar, not turqoise – just super freaking green! Surprisingly hard to find! This is a pretty standard stretch fabric, so I made a tight bodycon dress. So glad my sewing machine can do overlock stitch. For the pattern, I copied a dress I already had and adjusted the fit around the waist a bit. (I always have to take in any dresses I buy because my torso is so much smaller than my hips.) I also added the draping over the bust. It’s simply a rectangle of fabric that’s turned over once and pleated on both sides. I also made som pleats at the sides and centre of the neckline for more shape. Of all the garments I’ve made, this is definitely the one I’ve used the most. Both fancy and comfy!

 

 

 

 

 

bty

Bodycon dress back view.

bty

Bodycon dress front view.

May the Force be with you, Master Jedi!

This Jedi Master attended the premiere of Star Wars Episode VII: The Force Awakens dressed by me. Now he has joined the Rebel Legion! Emil had dreamed of owning proper Jedi attire ever since he was little, so this was an especially fun commission to make. Emil assembled the belt with all the little pouches himself, bought a pair of faux leather boots and weathered them and already owned the light saber. He was also inspired to make his own undertunic (barely visible at the neck here). More info on his Rebel Legion Profile!

 

5y9wt16

The Force is strong with this one.

20151021_153853

Shoulder tuck at the sleeve aligning with the tabard.

I made the Jedi tunic, tabard, obi and robe. The attire is very much inspired by traditional Japanese dress. I drafted the tunic from Emil’s aikido gi with a few changes: I added shoulder tucks (the little folds at the shoulders) and made the tunic a bit straighter. The obi and tabards are basically just long rectangular fabric tubes. The obi is wrapped around the waist and secured with the belt, and the tabards rest on the shoulders and are tucked under the obi. All except the robe made of the same oatmeal linen. For the robe, I had help from this fantastic tutorial. It is made from pure wool and very heavy! Emil had done a ton of research himself so that everything would be just right. The Rebel Legion has actual costume standards, much like historical accuracy in reenactment circles!

 

 

Jedi Master without his robe.

20151021_153914

The tabards cross at the back under the obi and the belt.

H4WeBDn

The robe is freaking huge!

Can I help you realise your Star Wars dreams? Contact me at order@samitumsewing.com !