1940s-inspired Winter Princess Coat

dav

Faux fur, wool blend and lining.

I started this project last winter, and this year in March I finally finished it. I had wanted to make a pretty winter coat for ages, but the real inspiration came when I found the fantastic  lining on sale. The choice of fabric and faux fur after that was all to match the lining (don’t you usually do it the other way round?^^). It took me forever of looking at patterns and pictures of 1940s princess coats to finally decide on the cut. An then many fitting and remodellings before I was satisfied with the silhouette. It ended up more as more of a 1940s+Victorian mix, but hey, I like both periods! I drafted everything myself from modified dress and sleeve pattern pieces. And yay, the hat from my Clara Oswin Oswald Governess Cosplay matches!

1950s dress underneath and late 1940s shoes on my feet!

dav

The fur collar can be wrapped around the neck.

dav

Metal zipper on the side ends at the waist.

dav

Pleats make the sleeves puff out.

1940s “Diamond Dresses”

IMG_1262

“Diamond dress” cut shown with Paint.

IMG_1261“Diamond dress” is a term of my invention to refer to dresses with this type of cut, as seen on the left. I like it so much I made two dresses out of the same pattern, with minor differences. All drafted by me with inspiration from authentic patterns form the 1940s, my favourite vintage era. I love the slim hourglass shape. The black one is made of a very sheer wool blend. It is gathered below the bust and has long sleeves.

 

 

 

IMG_1535The red one is made of viscose. It has pleats that meet at the bust and short sleeves.With both dresses I wear a brooch I inherited from my grand mother. I think it may actually be from the 1940s.

mde

Diamond-shaped brooch.

Star Trek TOS Science Officer

Sci-Fi theme at our New year’s party of 2015/2016! I have recently begun educating myself in the ways of Star Trek The Original Series. I wish the other Star Trek series could have been as progressive for their time as the original, so many missed opportunities!  Anyway, I decided to dress up in Star Fleet uniform – 1960s mini dress style. IF I ever was to be qualified for Star Fleet, I think I would be more suited to be a science officer than security or command. Would there a place for a dress consultant to help the crew blend in with new cultures?

2015-12-31 18.35.08

Am I needed on the bridge?

I found the pattern at this site, but didn’t have a lot of time to alter it according to my measurements. So when it came out much too wide, I simply removed one of the panels in the back and voilá, it fits pretty well! I drafted the collar myself. As I was pressed for time, I didn’t bother hemming it, and the fabric doesn’t fray anyway. I suppose I will remedy that for the next time I wear it.

There are Klingons on the starboard bow!

The fabric is a very shiny spandex in almost the correct shade of blue, but I used the wrong side of it to get a more matte surface. Here you can see what the fabric supposedly looked like in the actual TOS uniforms, but needless to say it was hard to find an exact match. I cut out the badge from a piece of ribbon with a gold reverse side, dabbed some glue on it to keep it from fraying and attached it with a safety pin. The collar is just some black cotton I had lying around.

mde

Inside of skirt. The skirt panels overlap both at the front and back but are only attached at the corners for flexibility.

mde

Combadge made of ribbon and glue, secured with a safety pin.

DON’T BLINK! Weeping Angel from Halloween 2013

DSC03865 1

Don’t even blink…

The theme for the Halloween party I went to in 2013 was Face Your Fears, and I chose to dress up as a Weeping Angel from the Dr Who episode Blink. That episode is scary no matter how many times I watch it! If you haven’t seen it, I won’t spoil it here, but I highly recommend it. It’s kind of a stand-alone episode, so you can watch it even if you haven’t seen any other Dr Who episodes.

DSC03870 1

Blink, and your dead.

The outfit is a rather simple dress with elastic waist and pleats. I tried to choose fabric, wig and makeup that were of the same grey colour, and I’m particularly pleased with how the grey makeup on my skin and the fabric align. The base of the wings is made from a plastic box which I reshaped and taped together and covered with fabric. I deliberately cut the fabric of the wings rather slapdash and left  the edges raw to give the illusion of chipped stone.

 

 

 

 

DSC03876

They’re fast, faster than you can believe

 

 

DSC03871 1

Don’t turn your back, don’t look away and DON’T BLINK! Good luck.

I didn’t manage to get the contacts I had bought into my eyes before the party, so my eyes are my natural brown instead of stone grey. Better luck next time! This was not an ideal party oufit, as I constantly had to keep track of where I put my painted arms so I didn’t stain any furniture. But I did manage to frighten my friends a bit, so I call it a success!

Pink Gold Peach Cosplay

2015-10-10 13.44.56

Ready to race!

I am quite incapable of hosting parties that don’t have a theme. Without a theme, how can I dress up? Most recently, I hosted a sport-themed house-warming party dressed as Pink Gold Peach from Mario Kart 8! Racing games count as sports, right? So far, Mario Kart 8 is the only game for the WiiU I own, and the only console game I’m relatively good at. I’ve wanted to cosplay my main, Pink Gold Peach, for a long time.

Then entire outfit is made with gold spandex. I drafted the pattern based on my gym tights and a t-shirt. The gloves are based on a pattern I found on the internet which I altered to make the gloves long. For the thigh high boots, I used a pair of ankle boots I already had and made long shoe covers, guided by internet tutorials. So, how do I get in and out of this outfit? Can you guess where the zipper is? It put it in a rather unorthodox place: namely around the hips! Ten points if you got it right! The other alternative was to put it at the centre back, but that would be very visible and require an extra seam (the fewer seams the better if the character you’re cosplaying doesn’t really look like they’re wearing clothes). Placed around the hips, the zipper is hidden under the belt.

Yup, I made a gold spandex body suit from scratch. For a theme party. But who knows, maybe I’ll get the chance to use the outfit again at a convention or something like that? In that case, I will probably make some kind of mask and crown, or a complete head piece, to truly become Pink Gold Peach from top to toe!

 

 

Are you going to a theme party and need an awesome outfit? Contact me! order@saitumsewing.com

2015-10-10 13.46.47

Vroooom!

Back from the changing room!

New language, new name, new website, new clothes! Welcome, old and new followers!

Samitumsamite in english) was one of history’s most luxurious silk fabrics. The colours were bright and it was often woven with gold and silver thread. I hope you will join this Sweden-based seamstress as I explore historical and fantastical clothes, from vikings to Victorian to vintage. Or realise your own costuming dreams and commission something from me at order@samitumsewing.com!

Captain Testarossa from Fullmetal Panic!

tessamakeup

Simple anime makeup using mineral foundation, eyelash curler, white and black eye pencil and lipgloss. Plus wig and circle lenses!

11781734_886925858040833_5510002970938754303_n

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I used to dislike anything with a military setting, but Fullmetal Panic! changed my mind and is now one of my favourite animes! It’s about a paramilitary organisation named Mithril and combines mechas with highschool anime fun. Teletha Testarossa is the captain of a submarine at Mithril. Even though it seems a bit unlikely that a 16-year-old girl would be given such responsibilities (because anime :P), I love how Teletha Testarossa is both a supersmart tactician and a pretty girl at the same time. Plus, the uniforms are stylish!

This was my first time making a suit, and first time cosplaying with a wig and circle lenses. I thought constructing the pattern for the suit would be the most challenging part, but I actually had a lot more trouble with the lenses! It took forever to teach my eyes to stop shutting themselves and let the lenses in. I even bought cheap one-day lenses to practise with. Now that I finally learned to do it I will certainly be using circle lenses again! The effect is stunning! I bought the lenses from PinkyParadise, I figured that to get lenses that really would cover my naturally dark eye colour, I should get them from a Japan where they expect you to have dark eyes. Most lenses you can buy in Sweden probably look great on blue eyes, but do absolutely nothing for dark brown.

I based the pattern for the jacket on the pattern of a shirt and drafted the collar and lapels myself. The skirt I copied from a pencil skirt I already had, but adjusted it significantly to fit better. Pinterest helped me sort my reference pictures. The material is cotton with acetate lining and bias tape around the edges. Unfortunately, the cosplay competition at Närcon 2015 where I was supposed to show off my finished project was cancelled due to the terrible weather. Better luck next time!

 

mithrilbadges

Bought badges online and embroidered over the bits that were of the wrong colour.

finished skirt

Finished skirt with a bought belt that looks just like in the anime, although you can only see in it the last scene of the last episode…

Open jacket with gold snap fasteners visible.

Made Mithril emblems from Fimo clay and mounted them on brooch fasteners.

tessawig

Wig styling with satin ribbon.

dav

Epaulette fastened with gold button and decorated with cotton ribbon.

dav

Sleeve with Mithril badge sewn on and decorated with folded bias tape.

Sheik from Ocarina of Time

IMG_1227

Sheik from Ocarina of Time.

My awesomely fit friend Maria was rocking her Sheik cosplay at Närcon 2015. Everything made by me except the “shoes” and the painting on the tabard. She also wears a fake fringe and red circle lenses. Apart from being a huge Zelda fan, Maria is a physiotherapist, personal trainer and body fitness competitor, so she has the muscle to pull off a life-like Sheik! Follow her on instagram and her blog!

11137965_841695329244548_566712467_n

Biceps at the first fitting!

I made the costume with stretch fabric of two different shades of blue, and white jersey bias tape around the edges. Around the chest, arms, fingers and headpiece we wrapped strips of an old sheet. Both the strips and the bias tape were first dyed with green tea to give them a more weathered look. No hemming, they’re supposed to look frayed. Some references from Pinterest, although it was hard to find good images from the appropriate game.

I based the pattern for the top and tights on some of Maria’s own tight work-out gear but changed the seam placements. The sheet strips around the chest are attached with seams at the centre, sides and the zipper opening in the back so that we wouldn’t have to wrap her up every single time she wore the cosplay.

11351021_380037882188975_888858953_n

Muscle-enhancing panels!

This is how I designed the panels on the sleeves: 1. I made a sleeve of the lighter blue fabric. 2. I asked Maria to put it on and flex her muscles. 3. I drew the shapes around her muscles with fabric marker. 4. I cut the shapes out and cut new ones from the darker blue fabric. 5. I edged the dark blue panels with bias tape and attached them to a new sleeve of the lighter blue. Same process with the legs.

 

 

 

11256390_1444659139167649_1578680408_n

Sheet strip hat on a hat form.

For the hat, I used a tight stretchy cap as a base and glued the sheet strips on to it while it was sitting on an old hat form. After the glue had dried, I removed the cap from within and was left with a hat so stiff it could stand on its own. I had originally planned to keep the stretchy cap inside, but that turned out too bulky. Anyway, it wasn’t needed to retain the shape of the hat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The tabard isn’t hemmed either, for a torn look, and turns into a tube around the neck which is held up with wire on the inside. Maria couldn’t see very well while we were walking around at the convention, but she got a lot of praise from other visitors!

 

 

Medieval Week on Gotland 2015 #1: Zelda’s Hylia Dress from Skyward Sword

I recieved a fun comission for this year’s Medieval Week on Gotland: a girl who wanted to be Zelda! At first, we thought we’d make the costume from Twilight Princess, but since she lives far away, making proper fittings impossible, we chose the simpler Hylia Dress from Skyward Sword. Plus points: the cut is inspired by medieval garments!

20150804_150140

Hylia in Visby!

IMG_0929

Dress with paper template.

 

I designed the dress using the same straight pieces and triangular gussets I use when making medieval clothes. In the back, I made adjustable laccing, partly because I wouldn’t be able to fit it perfectly on my client, and it turned out quite well! The pattern at the neck was the most difficult part: first, I made a paper template, then I hemmed to layers of fabric together along the edges of the pattern. Tricky! I look forward to seeing my creation in action at this year’s Medeival Week!

IMG_8157

The neck.

IMG_8159

Adjustable lacing.

Crocheted zill mufflers

mde

One muffler on each pair is enough.

Dancing ATS (American Tribal Style Bellydance) includes playing finger cymbals or zills. If you don’t have any music, the rythms you play are enough to dance to. They can be pretty loud though, so if you’re goind to practice at home it might be a good idea to muffle the sound. So I crocheted a pair of little “hats” for mine. I made them the simplest way possible: just crocheted in wider or narrower circles until they fit the zills. I also crocheted a little pouch using the same technique and wove in a satin ribbon to close it with.

mde

The mufflers look like little berets!

mde

A pouch full of zills.

mde

Zill mufflers and pouch.