May the Force be with you, Master Jedi!

This Jedi Master attended the premiere of Star Wars Episode VII: The Force Awakens dressed by me. Now he has joined the Rebel Legion! Emil had dreamed of owning proper Jedi attire ever since he was little, so this was an especially fun commission to make. Emil assembled the belt with all the little pouches himself, bought a pair of faux leather boots and weathered them and already owned the light saber. He was also inspired to make his own undertunic (barely visible at the neck here). More info on his Rebel Legion Profile!

 

5y9wt16

The Force is strong with this one.

20151021_153853

Shoulder tuck at the sleeve aligning with the tabard.

I made the Jedi tunic, tabard, obi and robe. The attire is very much inspired by traditional Japanese dress. I drafted the tunic from Emil’s aikido gi with a few changes: I added shoulder tucks (the little folds at the shoulders) and made the tunic a bit straighter. The obi and tabards are basically just long rectangular fabric tubes. The obi is wrapped around the waist and secured with the belt, and the tabards rest on the shoulders and are tucked under the obi. All except the robe made of the same oatmeal linen. For the robe, I had help from this fantastic tutorial. It is made from pure wool and very heavy! Emil had done a ton of research himself so that everything would be just right. The Rebel Legion has actual costume standards, much like historical accuracy in reenactment circles!

 

 

Jedi Master without his robe.

20151021_153914

The tabards cross at the back under the obi and the belt.

H4WeBDn

The robe is freaking huge!

Can I help you realise your Star Wars dreams? Contact me at order@samitumsewing.com !

Sheik from Ocarina of Time

IMG_1227

Sheik from Ocarina of Time.

My awesomely fit friend Maria was rocking her Sheik cosplay at Närcon 2015. Everything made by me except the “shoes” and the painting on the tabard. She also wears a fake fringe and red circle lenses. Apart from being a huge Zelda fan, Maria is a physiotherapist, personal trainer and body fitness competitor, so she has the muscle to pull off a life-like Sheik! Follow her on instagram and her blog!

11137965_841695329244548_566712467_n

Biceps at the first fitting!

I made the costume with stretch fabric of two different shades of blue, and white jersey bias tape around the edges. Around the chest, arms, fingers and headpiece we wrapped strips of an old sheet. Both the strips and the bias tape were first dyed with green tea to give them a more weathered look. No hemming, they’re supposed to look frayed. Some references from Pinterest, although it was hard to find good images from the appropriate game.

I based the pattern for the top and tights on some of Maria’s own tight work-out gear but changed the seam placements. The sheet strips around the chest are attached with seams at the centre, sides and the zipper opening in the back so that we wouldn’t have to wrap her up every single time she wore the cosplay.

11351021_380037882188975_888858953_n

Muscle-enhancing panels!

This is how I designed the panels on the sleeves: 1. I made a sleeve of the lighter blue fabric. 2. I asked Maria to put it on and flex her muscles. 3. I drew the shapes around her muscles with fabric marker. 4. I cut the shapes out and cut new ones from the darker blue fabric. 5. I edged the dark blue panels with bias tape and attached them to a new sleeve of the lighter blue. Same process with the legs.

 

 

 

11256390_1444659139167649_1578680408_n

Sheet strip hat on a hat form.

For the hat, I used a tight stretchy cap as a base and glued the sheet strips on to it while it was sitting on an old hat form. After the glue had dried, I removed the cap from within and was left with a hat so stiff it could stand on its own. I had originally planned to keep the stretchy cap inside, but that turned out too bulky. Anyway, it wasn’t needed to retain the shape of the hat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The tabard isn’t hemmed either, for a torn look, and turns into a tube around the neck which is held up with wire on the inside. Maria couldn’t see very well while we were walking around at the convention, but she got a lot of praise from other visitors!

 

 

Medieval Week on Gotland 2015 #1: Zelda’s Hylia Dress from Skyward Sword

I recieved a fun comission for this year’s Medieval Week on Gotland: a girl who wanted to be Zelda! At first, we thought we’d make the costume from Twilight Princess, but since she lives far away, making proper fittings impossible, we chose the simpler Hylia Dress from Skyward Sword. Plus points: the cut is inspired by medieval garments!

20150804_150140

Hylia in Visby!

IMG_0929

Dress with paper template.

 

I designed the dress using the same straight pieces and triangular gussets I use when making medieval clothes. In the back, I made adjustable laccing, partly because I wouldn’t be able to fit it perfectly on my client, and it turned out quite well! The pattern at the neck was the most difficult part: first, I made a paper template, then I hemmed to layers of fabric together along the edges of the pattern. Tricky! I look forward to seeing my creation in action at this year’s Medeival Week!

IMG_8157

The neck.

IMG_8159

Adjustable lacing.

Christmas Lolita Winter Coat

393

Santa Claus meets lolita fashion! My friend Marson loves Christmas, and last winter, she wanted a fabulous winter coat. Unfortunately, there was no snow left when we had the photo shoot, but let’s pretend that the tree in the background is a Christmas tree!

The design is inspired by winter coats in the Classic Lolita style. (Lolita is a Japanese sub culture and fashion style with many subgroups that, among other things, draws inspiration from Victorian fashion, the 18th century and porcelain dolls.)

As you can see in the photos, Marson is quite skilled at makeup. She recently started her own Youtube-channel, check it out!

The pattern is, true to my usual method, assembled using other patterns and changed a bit. Here, I used bits from a Lolita dress, a shirt and the hood from a gugel. I found the pretty lining as a just big enough remnant piece, lucky! The fluff is fake fur and the outer material is madder red wool fabric. The most difficult thing making this coat was working with the fluff. As soon as I started cutting it, the fibers got stuck on EVERYTHING. Be sure to have lots of lint rollers available when working with such materials!

460

Fluff, lining and button.

467

Close-up of the hood.

463

The belt.

375

Medieval Week on Gotland 2014 #3: Green Wool Kirtle

Before Medieval Week on Gotland 2014, I recieved several commissions from friends visiting this amazing event for the first time. This is a series of posts about all the different garments I created that summer.

This is my friend Annie’s green twill kirtle and linen shift!

Annie Båtman2

10432312_10203813458797666_1915836105_nAnnie did quite a bit of research on her own before ordering her outfit. This reference picture was her main inspiration. The high waistline reminds me of Regency dresses. I made a simple pattern using rectangular pieces and triangular gussets from the armholes down. The fabric is a lovely woll twill from Korps, super light and shiny! I also made a linen shift to be worn under the kirtle, with a simliar neckline to the one in the refenrece picture. Wool can be quite itchy on your skin, so it is necessary to wear linen undergarments. Also, linen can be washed repeatedly whereas wool shouldn’t really be washed at all. EVER. It’s enough to air it. In medeival times, linen undergarments and wool outer garments are what people wore. So this outfit is a bit historically correct, even though it’s completely machine sewn.

Medieval Week on Gotland 2014 #2: Blue Linen Dress

Before Medieval Week on Gotland 2014, I recieved several commissions from friends visiting this amazing event for the first time. This is a series of posts about all the different garments I created that summer.

This is my friend Malin’s bright blue medieval dress!

10603514_10152437276348964_4223375204078569033_n

The cut is similar to that of the garb of the Swedish archaelogical find The Bocksten Man: rectangular pieces and triangular gussets. It has a somewhat tailored fit, but is wide enough to just pull over the head. The fabric is blue linen from Korps. Completely machine sewn, so not exactly historically correct. Rather, it’s inspired by medieval fashion, and that’s why I call it a ”medieval dress”. After all, either the word ”medieval ” or the word ”dress” was used during the actual Middle Ages!

Malin is a skilled nail artist, and she has a (Swedish) blog named Malin lackar ur. Check it out!

valborgsnaglar

My nails made pretty by Malin.

Medieval Week on Gotland 2014 #1: Corset Vest

Before Medieval Week on Gotland 2014, I recieved several commissions from friends visiting this amazing event for the first time. This is the beginning of a series of posts about all the different garments I created that summer

First up, my childhood friend Maria’s outfit.

10453081_10152583111588756_8761891848176724830_o - CopyMaria’s inspiration was an outfit called the Archeress dress. It seems to be more inspired by Game of Thrones and other fantasy than the actual Middle Ages, but that’s perfectly fine for Medieval Week on Gotland! Maria made the dress herself, assisted by her mother, and I made the corset-like vest. She wore the vest not only to Medieval Week on Gotland, but also to the Steampunk Convention in Gävle, Sweden that same summer.

IMG_0473

Finished vest.

I made the vest with velvet, and sturdy cotton for lining. The original seems to be made from suede, but since that material is hard to come by and expensive, we chose velvet. Along the armholes and hips it is decorated with rolls and fabric filled with cotton, and those are in turn decorated with satin ribbons. For lacing, I used an old bootlace. The pattern is a combination of pieces from the pattern of a shirt and the pattern for my 1880s corset. I drew the rolls and shoulderpieces myself.

IMG_0459

The lining, partly assembled.

IMG_0472

The rolls look like little boats!