Medieval Week on Gotland 2014 #1: Corset Vest

Before Medieval Week on Gotland 2014, I recieved several commissions from friends visiting this amazing event for the first time. This is the beginning of a series of posts about all the different garments I created that summer

First up, my childhood friend Maria’s outfit.

10453081_10152583111588756_8761891848176724830_o - CopyMaria’s inspiration was an outfit called the Archeress dress. It seems to be more inspired by Game of Thrones and other fantasy than the actual Middle Ages, but that’s perfectly fine for Medieval Week on Gotland! Maria made the dress herself, assisted by her mother, and I made the corset-like vest. She wore the vest not only to Medieval Week on Gotland, but also to the Steampunk Convention in Gävle, Sweden that same summer.

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Finished vest.

I made the vest with velvet, and sturdy cotton for lining. The original seems to be made from suede, but since that material is hard to come by and expensive, we chose velvet. Along the armholes and hips it is decorated with rolls and fabric filled with cotton, and those are in turn decorated with satin ribbons. For lacing, I used an old bootlace. The pattern is a combination of pieces from the pattern of a shirt and the pattern for my 1880s corset. I drew the rolls and shoulderpieces myself.

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The lining, partly assembled.

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The rolls look like little boats!

1880s Ball Gown

Do you make a dress so you get to go to a ball, or do you go to a ball so you get to make a dress? For me, it’s definately the latter. I decided to go to the ball at the Steampunk Convention in Gävle 2014 beacuse I had wanted to make an 1880s-style ball gown for ages. I drafted the pattern myself, using parts from the pattern for my corset for the bodice pieces. It has drapery around the hips and bustline and is decorated with tiny little roses made from the same fabric (silke taffeta). Although it looks a bit ridiculous, I love the bustle era fashion. It’s like an extreme version of my own figure. Under the dress, I’m wearing a shift, corset, pantalettes, my black ATS-skirt and a folded lace petticoat for bustle. Does my ass look big in this?

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1880s Corset

When wearing historical clothing, it’s important to wear undergarments that are as period correct. Otherwise, the silhouette will turn out all wrong. So when I decided to make an 1880s ball gown for the Steampunk Convention in Gävle 2014, I needed a corset to wear under it.

I usde an authentic pattern for a Victorian Corset from the book Corsets and Crinolins by Nora Waugh. But my biggest help and inspiration for this project was the amazing Lucy of LucyCorsetry. On her website and youtube-channel, she has lots of useful information about making and wearing corsets, possible health issues and benefits, and also hair care. If you want to make a corset yourself, check out her videos! She is the master!

Partly assembled corset and all the materials: green silk, white cotton twill, spiral steel boning and busk. Everything except the fabric from www.sewcurvy.com. The twill was originally two towels I inherited, and I found the silk on Ebay. Silk or some other pretty fabric on the outside of the corset is optional, but it’s absolutely necessary to use a strong fabric like cotton or linen for the basic structure. The fabric has to withstand being stretched when the corset is laced, and be able to contain the steel boning.

Safety first! Spiral steel boning is usually delivered in a roll, so you have to cut pieces of the right length yourself. NEVER do this without protecting your eyes! Little pieces of metal fly everywhere, and if you get one in your eye you could go blind! For this, I borrowed my little brothers swimming goggles. I should invest in some cool steampunk goggles next time!

There are many myths about corsets and corset wearing, particularly about how they were worn during the Victorian era. When looking at authentic Victorian corsets, it’s easy to believe that the women who wore them laced themselves extremely tightly. But it’s important to remember that the corsets were worn with at least a 10 centimeter gap in the back. Also, most women wore corsets from an early age and were thus accustomed to it. Of course, wearing a corset is not as comfortable as wearing a pyjamas, and it can be a bit exhausting if you’re not used to it. The corset should not be laced too tightly the first time, and your first corset should be one that only reduces the waist slightly to give your body time to adjust. But you can absolutely breathe while wearing a corset! You just have to breathe higher up in your chest. A well-made corset leaves room for your lungs to expand and only cinches at the waist. It was a long time before I realised that there actually should be a bit of a gap at the ribcage, that it did not mean that every corset was too big at the top for my small breasts. Since the corset is very tight at the waist, you can’t eat large amounts of food at the same time, you have to eat smaller meals more often. And of course, it is not the most comfortable garment to work out in. To lace oneself in a tight corset to live up to the fashion ideal of having a tiny waist seems strange to many, but, on the other hand, many people today undergo surgery and take drugs to live up to other standars of beauty. Which do you think is more strange?

My first cosplay – Sophie Hatter from Howl’s Moving Castle

Howl’s Moving Castle by Dianna Wynne Jones has been my favourite book ever since I first found it on a school trip to the city library. So when I heard that my favourite film creator, Hayao Miyazaki, was making it into an anime I was over the moon! Howl’s Moving Castle has everything: a wonderful main character, fantasy, romance, humour, Victorian clothes…And the movie adds steampunk into the mix! Years later when I started cosplaying, the choice of which character to portray first was easy. I chose to cosplay Sophie Hatter as she appears in the beginning of the anime mostly because her hair is very much like mine, so I didn’t need to invest in a wig. I wore this cosplay to the japanese pop culture convention Uppcon in Uppsala, Sweden in 2012 and participated in the cosplay contest. I didn’t win any prize, but I don’t think I’ve ever recieved so many hugs from strangers as when I walked around the con in my cosplay! 

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I made the dress from cotton fabric, being the mostly likely fabric used by Sophie if she really had been a hatter’s daughter during the Victorian era. I made the buttons by covering some other buttons with the same fabric. I also wore brown boots, black overknee socks and pantalettes that I made from an old blouse. 

I bought the hat, but made the decorations myself. The little pink balls are wood with fabric swen onto them.

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I’m in a book!

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The Swedish book featuring me: Sven Hartman, red: Slöjd bildning &kultur, Carlsson bokförlag, ISBN 978 91 7331 657 6

This cosplay was also featured in a Swedish book about handicrafts. One of my teacher’s when I was studying textile history asked if she could use it in a short section about cosplay and I said yes.

Clara Oswin Oswald Governess

image4My favourite companion, one of my favourite historical fashion eras and a challenging costume! Of course I had to cosplay Clara Oswin Oswald as a governess in the Dr Who episode The Snowmen! I first made it for a New Years party with the theme ”Hats” because she wears a hat in one short scene of the episode… Obscure references ftw! Then I fixed it up a bit for the Steampunk Convention in Gävle, Sweden 2014. The collar and fastening needed redoing, that was one of the most difficult things I have ever made. I cheated a bit and used a zipper in the front and just used the buttons as decoration. But I recieved a lot of compliments during the convention, and at least one person recognised the cosplay!

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Maybe this cosplay isn’t exactly Steampunk but more Victorian. But the timeframe fits, and Dr Who definitely has steampunk elements! Come on, a machine that’s alive and travelling through space and time with a suspiciously british alien!

At first, I made the dress using my regular measurements, but since I had the idea to make a corset to wear under it, my waist measurement became slightly smaller and I had to redo it. For reference pictures, I used a Pinterest board. The pattern is a copy of an authentic 1887 dress from the book Patterns of Fashion 1 by Janet Arnold, but I drew the collar myself. I bought the hat and covered it with velour fabric and attached the bow and feathers. The blue fabric was a remnant of a wool fabric intended for suits, and the shop hade just enough of it left. The collar is made with sturdy cotton for firmness and microsatin for shine. The skirt is my ATS Bellydance skirt. I didn’t have time to make a proper bustle, so I just folded a lace petticoat a few times and tied it to my waist.